Fry 'Em Up

Local Fish photo by AMR

The story starts here. With a family tradition.

Fishing.

FD and his dad go fishing every spring and summer. I went one time last summer. There's not a lot of talking unless it's about the weather and how the fish are biting, which was fine by me. I love weather, and I love talking about bites. And as weird as it sounds I appreciated silence, the quiet rock of the boat. In fact I welcomed it, and when I achieve it with loved ones I hold it like a new kitten, a small gift from above. Sometimes talking clouds the purest truth of the activity, the act that is shared. Truth be told, as much as I'm a hip-hop/dance junkie, I'm happiest cooking when I'm in the kitchen without music and Bleu is at feet.

I pretty sure in our attempt to eat local meats our families decided we should eat what they can't. In addition to what we've procured.

Early this June FD and I realized we had a deep freezer half full of Ohio/Pennsylvania-caught fish. The only way to eat over 100 fillets/5 lbs of fish is to have a fish fry, right?

Other photos by SEKL, FDR, ASC

We like alliteration. We decide a Fish Fry on the 4th.

Sarah L. & I, over several Clover Clubs (okay, really it was over lunch at Naslada, we had water, there's no drama in that) craved Southern. We needed fish, corn on the cob, greens, coleslaw, shredded beef, cucumber salad, sweet potatoes, and pimento cheese.

At 5 Sarah arrived with 5 lbs of greens. We stemmed, we washed, we rendered fat from bacon, we wilted, we simmered, we kept going.

As a hostess, I can tell you a fish fry isn't easy. There's soaking, breading, frying, draining, and several more batches. In addition to getting sides ready, making sure guests are happy, and coordinating timing. I had anticipated easy street. I was wrong.

At any given time, I was stressed, crazy, witty, bossy, meek, pissed, satisfied, jittery, relaxed, humble, loud, quiet, grateful, and, most importantly, thoughtful about food, where it comes from and who we share it with.

~

Sweet potato chips in the fryer

There are few people I am around where we don't talk and are cool. It's a weird thing to be around people in silence. Besides movie theaters and doctor offices when really don't humans speak to each other except when they are alone?

I'm loud.

Many people have told me I remind them of a cartoon character (perhaps because of my love of Hello Kitty???) and that I'm intense, animated, intimidating, etc.


I'm just passionate, honest, and enthusiastic.

Even though fishing is a quiet act, frying is not. There's oohhhing, aaahhhing, yelling for more flour, worrying about bubbling over, etc. etc.

At one point, though, we got in our assembly line rhythm, and the four of us battered and fried the last batch with almost no verbal communication. Our hands dredged fish, shook off the extra batter, placed fillets in the fryer and did it again, as if we all shared one mind.

It reminded me of the rock of the boat, the fishing poles in our hands, and dawn breaking over the lake.

~

All hands on deck

We fried 'em up on the 4th.

Sarah L., G, E.H., and I took charge. It was clear we were the food obsessed.

Or better put: we were devoted to the fish. Others were too. They would be present for start to finish of a batch, such as FD, CC, and AC, which I appreciate whole heartily. In fact, as as Gemini, I welcomed any attention. The other guests looked on like it was a train wreck. People like danger, potential fire, and drama. In a matter of two hours of this fish fry I had cooked several dishes cooked and ready, a fryer that wouldn't heat up and tripped the breaker, a severe mandolin (the knife, not the instrument) injury, and realized I was two hours behind eating time.

As an OCD hostess I was fucked.

But inviting the perfect people dissolved my need to obsess and surrender to defeat.

Several dishes were ready: right on; Jersey helped me figure out my breakers and turn shit off to turn on the fryer; my mom's hospital office job where I became friends with nurses gave me the know-how to aid a cut wound into remission (we thought we needed stitches but really only what we needed was to lay down on the bathroom floor [see being OCD does pay off; the floor was sparkling clean] with the finger in the air, some Solarcaine, a bandage, and some Sherry), and for the most part our friends like to eat between 8-9 p.m.

I was in luck.

~

Fishes in the fryer

My Pops was specific, "Fry away from the house. Put it between the house and the garage on the edge of the patio. And assign one fryer attendant. It should be you. It's our fryer. You'll know how to work it."

I was in bare feet.

That wasn't in the manual, but my Pops said, "Wear shoes."

I followed my Pops' advice. And didn't. We do that as kids. We're allowed.

This was the first meal I made that potentially risked my home, my loved ones, my clothing (which I love a lot), and my bare feet.

And I think others felt that way.

They stood and watched.

What would happen?

For the first time ever I saw concern on Sarah L.'s face. I don't know about this, her expression read in one photo. When she showed me the pic, I thought, That's my look. What are you doing???

Then she said, "That's the look you make every time I make a souffle or marshmallows. I guess I didn't realize how freaked out I was."

Deep frying is scary.

And lots of fun.

~

I had a lot of help, but I was ultimately guardian of the fryer, as my Pops had advised.

I dropped the basket in. We all watched the oil bubble up and engulf the fish, though. And G would give the basket a shake so the fish wouldn't stick too much together while I was running around organizing other things. But when the fishies were fried, it was I who pulled the basket out with its little coat-hanger-pulley-thingy. I put the lid on, let the temperature come back up to 400, assembled the assembly line and started again.

My Pops would have been proud.

~

At 9, the crew went through the buffet line and piled their plates with cuke salads, braised greens, baked beans, grilled corn, crisp coleslaw, shredded beef, and fried fish.

There was one moment of silence at the beginning as folks chewed the first bites. But then there were outbursts over flavors or new conversations.

Dessert (s'mores with homemade marshmallows, chocolate, and pralines) was just as big of a hit.

And while I made future notes to buy more Nut Thins and lemons (thanks L & S for the run to Kroger!), to put butter, salt and pepper on the table for corn, and to put out as many chairs as we have, what sticks with me more is how a family tradition became a gathering.

 There were writers and teachers, a print media-ist, a composer of music, a medical assistant, an archivist, a webmaster, a construction guru/visual artist, a dancer, and a bio-chemist. A talented motley crew with a love of fried food.  What I love about parties is sometimes these talents are brought up and other times we get to escape them for a few moments under the silent canopy of holiday lights.

"Thank You, Baby Jesus..." I'm Cooking Again. But, First, Check Out My Tree.

Thank you, Kaleidoscope Farms for an amazing tree.

Loveliest tree ever.

Will eventually have a live tree in my office or kitchen that only has food/food-relate ornaments on it.

One of my favs I got from FD's parents the year FD and I married.

The Christmas Meal

All the holiday cooking turned out perfectly.

The mashed potatoes were a hit as well as the salad and breakfast casserole. I absolutely adored the salad, and it motivated me to no longer be afraid of de-seeding a pomegranate.

The curried applesauce perfectly cut the saltiness of the ham and enhanced its porkiness. But it was a bit different so I'm not sure my family really enjoyed it. You have to really love curry to really love the curried applesauce.

Of course, like all holidays, I forgot my little cooler at my parents' and sadly left behind the extra applesauce and a qt of Calder's Milk. I hope they found some use for them.

It was nice to cook for my family and share a meal with them. I'm looking forward to the day when FD and I can host a holiday meal in our own home. That will be the ultimate holiday cooking adventure for me. Until then, I'm delighted to make the sides and enjoy the holiday cheer. And I vow to continue working on my holiday baking--another resolution to add to the list.

For New Year's Eve's meal we're heading to Revolver for our annual tradition. I can't wait!

Holiday Cooking: Day 2, Part 3

The last part of my holiday cooking is a salad.

It's in pieces right now, but I promise to take a pic of the final results.

I got the recipe from Bon Appetit's Dec. 2009 issue.

I picked up walnuts instead of hazelnuts, so we'll see how it goes.

Escarole and Butter Lettuce Salad with Pomegranate Seeds and Walnuts

Dressing Ingredients:
1/4 Champagne dressing
1/4 c OJ
1 1/2 t fresh lemon juice
1 t fresh lime juice
1 t grated lemon peel
1 t grated lime peel
1 t grated orange peel
1/2 c olive oil

Directions:
Combine vinegar and next 6 ingredients in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Salad Ingredients:
1 large head of escarole, coarsely torn
1 large head of butter lettuce, coarsely torn
1 Golden Russet apple, quartered, cored, thinly sliced
1 c fresh pomegranate seeds
2/3 c walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

Salad Directions:
Mix all ingredients in a large bowl. Toss with enough dressing to coat.

--I think this salad is going to be an easy one to travel with. I have the dressing done, the lettuce washed and spun-dried, the pom seeds separated and cleaned in their own little bowl, and walnuts all done in their bowl. I'll slice the apple and tear the lettuce at my family's right before we eat. Easy enough to do while the Crack Potatoes are baking.

Holiday Cooking: Day 2, Part 2

Crack Potatoes. A holiday must.

(Check out my December column in Connotation Press to learn more about my obsession with Crack Potatoes.)

And as much as I love Crack Potatoes, I love gravy. Because my family is doing a ham, we're sans gravy this year.

So to ensure creaminess and flavor without gravy, I put a twist on the traditional Crack Potatoes recipe with the help of Cook's Illustrated Entertaining Issue 2009.

What I love about Crack Potatoes is you can make them ahead-of-time and they're another easy-to-transport dish.

Ingredients for Topping:
4 slices white bread (I used Zingerman's Bakerhouse White)
2 T butter, melted
1/4 c fresh parsley
salt & pepper

Directions for Topping:

Heat over to 300. Quarter each piece of bread and then pulse in food processor to course crumbs. Toss crumbs with melted butter and spread on baking sheet. Bake, stirring occasionally, until golden, about 20 minutes. Let crumbs cool, then toss with parsley, salt and pepper.

Ingredients for Potatoes:
5 lbs potatoes, peeled, sliced into 3/4 inch thick rounds, and rinse thoroughly. (I used a mix of our local French Fingerlings, All Red, and Carola potatoes.)
2 1/2 c 2% milk, warmed
1 c sour cream
8 T butter, melted
2 1/2 t Dijon mustard
1 med garlic clove, minced
pinch cayenne pepper
salt and pepper
8 oz extra-sharp cheddar cheese, shredded

Bring potatoes to boil over high heat, then reduce to simmer until potatoes are tender, about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile in a small saucepan melt butter over medium heat, then add milk and garlic. Stir until warm.

Drain potatoes in colander. In batches mash potatoes. (You can use a ricer, but this time I used my stand-mixer to save time.) Stir in milk mixture, sour cream, mustard, and cayenne pepper. Season with salt and pepper. (The potatoes may seem really "wet," but don't fret. Keep stirring; they will thicken.)

Pour potatoes into 13X9 baking dish. Sprinkle shredded cheese on top then breadcrumbs.

To cook immediately: Heat oven to 350, bake uncovered, until hot throughout, 25-30 minutes.

To make ahead (up to 2 days ahead): Wrap casserole in plastic. To cook, unwrap plastic and top with foil. Bake for 20 minutes at 350, covered. Remove foil, bake until topping is crisp, 20-30 minutes more.

--I'm dying to see how this Crack Potatoes recipe turns out. I'll keep you posted.

Holiday Cooking: Day 2, Part 1

Today's cooking is much better. Probably because I'm actually cooking and not attempting any desserts.

For Christmas morning, I made a breakfast casserole from the Cook's Country Oct/Nov 2009 issue.

I made it once before and felt it needed some revision. But I really liked it. And it's super easy to make. Even better, it's easy to transport if you travel to several houses over the holidays.

Ingredients:
1 loaf Italian bread, cubed
1 lb pork sausage
1 med onion, diced
3 c shredded extra sharp cheddar cheese
12 large eggs, lightly beaten
4 c 2% milk
salt
pepper
sage
1 T hot sauce

Directions:

You can choose to bake the bread or not. If you do, toast in a 400 degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes. I've found my baking the bread it stands out more in the casserole.

Brown the sausage over medium heat with sage, salt, and pepper. Add onion and cook for 5 minutes.

Grease 9X13 baking dish. Coat bottom of dish with 1/2 of the bread cubes. Top with 1/2 the sausage mixture and 1 cup of cheese. Repeat with remaining bread, sausage, and cheese.

Whisk eggs, milk, salt, pepper, and hot sauce in a large bowl. Pour evenly over casserole. Wrap with plastic and weigh down with boxes of broth or 4 large tomato cans. Refrigerate 1-48 hours.

To bake, heat oven to 350. Remove weights, unwrap casserole, and bake until edges are golden brown, about 1 hour. Let cool 10 minutes. Serve.

Christmas Cooking: Truffles Part 2

Ugh.

Everyday Food truffles aren't even worthy of taking a picture of.

Goddamn it, Martha Stewart. Why are your recipes so hit-or-miss? Maybe because you don't write them...

They started melting the minute I started rolling them.

I don't know why because they chilled for over 3 hours.

And I'm mad because these truffles taste better than the Weight Watchers ones, but why try to serve them when they look so gross with my fingerprints all over them and when they are misshapen from melting.

I'm tempted to give up on desserts, except for the Jell-O Stained Glass Cake.

Off to walk off my dessert frustration with Bleu.

Christmas Cooking: Truffles Part 1

I'm not much of a baker, so I thought I'd give truffles a whirl.

I found two recipes: one in the Best of Weight Watchers Magazine cookbook and one in Everyday Food.

I wanted to test them both because they have the same calorie count (55) per truffle. Many people don't worry about calories during the holiday season, but several of my family members are trying to lose weight and others have diabetes. I wanted to make a little something they could enjoy too.

I love the taste of the truffle, but I used too much cocoa powder to roll them in. If you don't eat the Weight Watcher truffle all in one bite, you first taste the bitter from the cocoa, which is a little off putting. Next time I think I'll only roll them in edible glitter. Roll and learn, right?

Ingredients:
1/4 cup semisweet chocolate chips
2 oz cream cheese
1/4 t champagne extract (or any extract you like)
2 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
1 T unsweetened cocoa powder

Directions:

Microwave chocolate chips in a medium bowl on High until nearly melted. Stir until smooth. Let cool.

Add cream cheese and extract; with electric mixer on medium speed, beat until smooth, about 1 minute. Add the sugar and continue beating until smooth and thick. Shape mixture into a thin 12-inch log. Wrap well in plastic, and refrigerate until chilled through, at least 30 minutes.

Spread cocoa onto a sheet of wax paper. Slice the log into 24 pieces and roll each into a 3/4 inch ball. Roll balls in cocoa (or other topping) to evenly coat.

Storage: keep in an airtight container for a week or up to a month in the freezer.

Stay tuned for Part 2: The Everyday Food truffles.

Christmas Cooking: Day 1

I don't mind holiday cooking. Not one bit.

Maybe it's because I'm a young cook.

Or maybe it's because I simply like making people happy with food.

Or maybe I like the challenge of trying to use all local ingredients in the foods I make.

Or maybe I'm just plain crazy.

For whatever reason, I'm just glad I like it because it helps lift the burden for those who don't like holiday cooking.

Today I started with applesauce to accompany our ham. I tried a homemade unsweetened applesauce recipe that I'm quite happy with. It's from the Apple Cookbook by Olwen Woodier. I used Golden Russets from our local farmer, Homestead Gardens.

I'm quite happy with how the applesauce turned out. It's savory and smooth with a lot of flavor. I'm hoping that making it earlier and letting it sit will only enhance the flavor.

Ingredients:
10 medium apples (any kind except Red Delicious or summer-harvested apples)
1 T water
1 t ground nutmeg
2 T local honey
zest of lime (sadly not local)
1/2 t ground ginger
1/2 t curry powder

Method:

Core and quarter apples. (You can leave the skins on if you are using a food processor to blend the sauce.) Place in a large saucepan with water and the nutmeg.

Cover the pot and simmer for about 30 minutes or until the apples are tender. Puree in a food processor to the desired consistency. Stir in honey, lime zest, ginger and curry.

Tis the Season of Potlucks

This week we had our office potluck.

I brought a new chili recipe that I found on epicurious. But I doctored it up quite a bit. See below for my take.

My co-workers went all out too; they made sausage won tons, homemade apple pie, better brushetta, and spinach dip. Plus we had a great assortment of fruit and veggies with hummus and other dipping sauces.

I was quite happy and full. A good time was had by all.

Here's the recipe for the chili with my revisions:

1/2 pound bacon, coarsely chopped
2 pounds lean ground beef
1 28-ounce can Italian-style tomatoes, tomatoes chopped, juices reserved
2 15 1/2-ounce cans black beans

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced
2 fresh hot chilies

3 T Cumin

2 T Chili Powder

pinch of cinnamon

1 bottle beer

Preparation:

Sauté bacon in heavy large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat until brown, about 4 minutes. Drain off fat and discard. Add beef to pot and sauté,. with onion and garlic, until brown, breaking up clumps with back of spoon, about 7 minutes. Drain beef. Add tomatoes with juices, beans and spices. Bring chili to boil. Add beer. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook until thickened to desired consistency, stirring occasionally, about 3 hours. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle chili into bowls. Serve, passing cheese, onions and sour cream separately.

(Make ahead: pour chili into crock pot. Refridgerate overnight. Reheat in crock pot for 3-4 hours on low.)

Happy Halloween: A Table Setting

I scored the table runner and spider web basket at Crate and Barrel after last Halloween. They were on wicked sale.

I adore how they look with our Crate and Barrel dining set.

(Yes, if you didn't know, I am a label whore, even when it comes to my holiday decorating.)

I just wish now that I had bought the matching place-mats and fabric napkins...

Here's to a Happy Halloween season and the good treats that come with it.